Saturday, December 27, 2008

It’s the Little Things That Count


Today…everyday, there are things that bring a smile to my face. It’s not hard to make me smile. I smile a lot, even when I may be feeling down. But it’s those special moments that can make my whole body happy and warm for half a minute and than it’s forgotten within a split second. And even when I tell myself, “don’t forget that ever Ciara!” I put it aside and store it away deep in my sub conscience thinking it will be useful later to lift up my spirits another day. But when that day rarely comes the moment is buried and perhaps lost forever.
“N te!” (Malinke for “I refuse to do that” often accompanied by a stamping of a foot while snapping both elbows to the side.) I refuse to live and to just forget what make life all the more hopeful, beautiful, and perfect. For it is through those moments that God is trying to tell you He is always there.
This blog is dedicated to my little sister Cerisa. She knew how to deal with those fleeting moments by simply writing them down in bullet form in a hand notebook while we backpacked around Europe together.
To the little things…
* A market lady I’ve never seen before snuck into my small purchase 2 packets of vanilla sugar as cadeaux.
* My brothers Baba & Bofis not only hug me but they let me hold onto them for as long as I like.
*I dropped my head wrap in the river when trying to balance a load on my head. A strange woman not only took the time to rewash it but then helped me balance the heavy load again.
*When I was at a loss of Malinke words au marche, a stranger came to my rescue and spoke to me in French and then translated to the vendor.
*I wasn’t paying attention and I hit a box with my rear. I began to sing aloud a popular Malinke song “bo bara ba.” N fa laughed and said it wasn’t true. “Bo bara ba” means “big butt.”
*Les filles run up to me and always want to play “Slide.” See Cerisa! You officially taught an African village how to play an American game.
*This happens every evening. The second I return from working in the garden my entourage of kids sings, “Fadima, Toubabou, Fadima, Toubabou!” The shouting of my name is rewarded by me dancing on my bike, but when I hear the shouting of white person I shake my head in disapproval while trying to mask my smiles.

Sunday, December 7, 2008

Jumbled thoughts of being here for 1 year

The World Map Project in the making at l'ecole primaire

It's hard to describe how fast time flies. It's a saying one says every year and at certain times of the year. But time here in Africa is much different. Life is slower with people passing time just sitting. It's refreshing to just sit. Do you remember the last time you just sat? I don't think I ever just sat around while living in America. But here, it's the culture to just sit.
As much as I've embraced the culture, I still have the American tendency to want the feeling, whether physical or emotional, to mark an important event in my life. So I decided to chop my hair off (don't worry Celina...it still touches the shoulders). It felt great and it feels like I'm turning the page to start a new chapter of my Peace Corps adventures.
I am so excited for my 2nd year to begin and scared at the same time. I hear that the 2nd goes by even quicker and I don't know if I want it to. I want to cherish every second, some how catalog every memory, feeling, and thought without having the factor of time pressuring my experience. I'm not saying I'm going to extend to a 3rd year(don't worry ma famille)but my wheels are turning and I don't want them to stop. I know how important getting out of your comfort zone is I encourage everyone to go out there and discover yourself over and over again.
The new group of volunteers arrived on December 4th (my one year anniversary).Amy and I were the first volunteers at the gate to welcome the tired group. It was like looking into a mirror of the past. I saw my jet-lagged yet bright-eyed face in each one of them and remembered how excited I felt. These new trainees are our babies and I feel determined to show them the ropes.
So far I've been more than impressed. They've really bonded early as a group and they have an interesting dynamic. Every session is filled with great discussion because their questions and curiosities are so fresh. They've really made me aware of things that I've become accustomed to. Which again scares me because I don't want to take anything for granted.
After listening to my APCD Kristine speak about the Agroforestry program to the new group, I was reminded at how unique Peace Corps in general is. As a volunteer it's common to interact with international NGOs and aid organizations for hopeful collaboration on projects. With goals for each organization being different you could never compare them, but it's rare to find the PC way of living among a community as if they were a part of it.
How lucky am I to be welcomed into an African village and be part of a beautiful, rich community!N fa called me yesterday evening while I was having dinner with the new group. It didn't even phase me that I was speaking in Malinke and when I got off the new kids commented on how they can't wait to speak a tribal language. Epiphany! I have come a long way!

Friday, November 21, 2008

Meet Ciara


I went to visit my first host family yesterday. They were the ones who welcomed me and took me in. A stranger in their home who didn't know a lick of French except, "bonjour, ca va?" It was amazing how far I've come and how much I've learned. I couldn't believe how much bigger all my brothers and sisters have become. They used to be skinny little things that looked up to me. After only 11 months they now not only tower me but they look as if they've been eating the Moringa powder I left them. However, the biggest surprise was the new baby girl. She smiles a lot, is easy to entertain, and is the greatest joy to be around. Her name is Ciara.

Saturday, November 15, 2008

Moni diman n ye



I like moni. It can be made with either corn, millet, or flour. They are all yummy in taste but different in appearance ranging from baby pink to brick red. My favorite is corn moni which looks applesauce yellow. It is my vanilla soy latte but better because I don't have to wait in a Starbucks drive-thru dreaming of the hot liquid that has the magical ability to take the edge off. But instead of the processed taste I get the most natural, comforting warmth going straight into my stomach, instantly reminding me of my mother's tender kisses on my forehead. Moni for breakfast is usually a once a week deal and my whole family knows how much I love the stuff. I see the anticipation in my brothers and sisters eyes waiting for me to exclaim, "moni diman n ye!"
But I remember the first day I had the corn poridge almost a year ago thinking,"okay, this is weird, but I can get used to it." I thought it had sour milk in it but after learning how to make it I realized the sourness came from limes. It was also around this year mark that I remembered that attitudes could be sour too. Time is an often misjudged factor in an equation.I've heard so many people say," I thought about doing the Peace Corps, but 2 years is too long or I'll go back to school someday but I don't have the time right now." Time takes care of itself so one doesn't need to make it.
Being in the Peace Corps for a year now, I have learned that time is one of the keys to success. Many people, like I did, question the 27 month commitment but in retrospect I know it's just right. Like my recruiter told me, the 1st year is about integrating, learning who you can trust, and getting comfortable. The real work starts your second year. Every volunteer's experience is different but so far mine has followed that timeline. I have heard drums talk, I have seen babies die, I have tasted Kola nut, I have smelled the mango season, and I have felt nothing but gratitude for being given the time to do it all.

Tuesday, October 21, 2008

Girl’s Conference…



was a blast. As an Agroforestry volunteer, I did things I never thought I would do like: a condom demonstration, blowing up condoms to stuff pertinent questions inside for a game of hot potato or hot condom if you will, or teach “ Head, shoulders, knees in toes” in three different languages as an energizer. The only thing I could think of that had anything to do with Agfroforestry was the wood in the wooden penis. No wait…I used bananas for the condom relay race!
I probably would’ve been more suited to be a public health volunteer given my studies and work experience but my volunteer work with farmers in Tanzania solidified my decision to be a tree hugger. Really most people are bewildered as to why this LA/Cali girl likes to her hands dirty and the answer is simple: women. Being the only female volunteer in the Sustainable Agriculture program in Tanzania ended up being amazing despite my initial doubts.
All the farmers were women. My broken Swahili didn’t stop them from wrapping me in their congas, traditional fabric worn in the fields. They showed their appreciation when I joined them, elbows deep in fresh cow manure for composting, especially when the guys refused. Their singing brought tears to my eyes and their hard work inspired me. They are why I am here.
I honestly believe the women of Africa, specifically Guinea are the strongest women in the whole world. With all odds against them like over 80% of females are excised, early marriage and bride price, expectations of bearing lots of children, and lack of education they can still do it all. I see it in my Guinean sisters when they get home from school juggling their studies with chopping wood to start dinner. Their brothers who go to the private Franco-Arab schools get to play soccer before tying up the goats, cows, and donkeys.
It’s unfair because it’s life. But these girls don’t complain because they know feeding their family of 10 is a priority. They don’t show emotion when they are called stupid by the teacher in front of the class. They don’t say anything. Most girls just don’t have the confidence.
Each volunteer was allowed to bring 2 girls from their village. Over the course of 4 months I had to encourage girls that their French was better than mine and the Peace Corps’ Girl’s Conference was an excellent opportunity. I ended up bringing Kane, a beautiful, smart, but shy girl and Aicha, a loud, trouble making mother who used little Mamydy as an excuse to her inappropriate behavior. She slept during the 1st day of the conference and was disrespectful to some of the volunteers.
Our sessions were held in the American Reading Room at the University of Kankan. There were 6 volunteers, 15 girls, and 8 members of a health related NGO which were made of all Guineans from different villages throughout the region. The 3 day conference was exhausting but worthwhile. Some sessions were harder to do than others like the session I did on why women are more susceptible to contracting AIDS on a social and cultural context. And others were more light hearted like the benefits of Moringa oleifera-the tree of life, which Alison and David held.
The girl’s favorite session was on excision surprisingly. There was no need for translation during the Guinean NGO’s knee slapping skit. Us volunteers were lost by the fast Malinke but we were just so happy the girls enjoyed themselves. Let’s just hope they really talked about excision and not about Islam.
I was a part of the last session of the conference called “Planning for our Futures.” Adam and Dr. Trian (Peace Corps Medical Officer) held their part indoors while I had to take mine outside because as I mentioned earlier, I like to get my hands dirty. When the girls came out I split them into 2 and had the girls compete for a prize (all the girls got nail polish at the end). The goal was to think of and write 50 jobs a woman can do. Because of time restraints neither team got to 50 but it got their minds running. I held a can of blue paint and told them that blue represented them the girl. I talked about the Guinean girl and her responsibilities at home, school, and to her peers. Next I held a can of red paint saying it represented their dreams, aspirations, and hard work. Well most people know what red and blue yields but the girls were blank which ended up being a good thing because what Adam and I ended up with was a bluish black color. I improvised our mistake saying, “Noir est jolie” and described what the bluish black represented. It represented the woman doctor, woman teacher, woman governor, the woman mother, the woman inside of them that can do anything
I pre-titled nice sheets of paper with “Les Femmes peuvent tout faire-Women can do everything.” I invited each girl to dip their hand in the paint and think about what they wanted to be when they grew up. Underneath their handprint they wrote their name, date, and the job they chose. There were 8 doctors, which I know most were just copying their friends but I was impressed to see journalist, engineer at the gold mines, and NGO worker.
There were many problems at the conference regarding logistics like having the girls wait for hours for water to bathe with as well as their lodging being a long walk, well planned sessions due to lack of resources at the villages, and using French as a bridge when neither party had it as their native language. But I could tell the girls took good things from it too like new friendships with girls from different villages. For many of the girls it was their first time to leave their village. What I took from it was 15 new friends and the understanding that the best thing I can do is give them confidence by showing them women really can do everything.

Home for the Holidays



You know a holiday is near when the Super-Walmart has dedicated aisle after aisle stocked with Easter baskets, Costco’s hydraulic bustle is accented with display Santa’s ringing a Christmas tune, or the normally vacant parking lot is bursting of pumpkins, hay stacks, and children. I love the holidays so having mine interrupted to come here was hard. But I thought it would have been harder.

I was distracted by the obvious: new surroundings, new friends, new family, new language, and didn’t have the reminders of white icicle lights or Starbucks advertising my favorite “gingerbread lattes.” Instead I had a semi-cold beer while watching the sunset over Conakry’s murky coastline and wished Jesus a Happy Birthday.

I look back and can’t believe that was almost a year ago. It didn’t occur to me that I didn’t have a real Christmas. I felt like I finally got to celebrate Christmas last month with the celebration of the end of Ramadan. After the head imam in Conakry declared the fast to be over I knew I was in for a treat when I took a chair and headed to the entrance of the village. I sat among the griots (my family) in a newly constructed concession of huts and played a cowbell for over an hour while N fa beat the taama, N na sang out of a megaphone, and my brother (a famous griot) played the balaphone. We called the whole village to celebrate under the blanket of night illuminated only by our flashlights. The old ladies managed to get me to join them to dance which is normally not a hard feat, but old lady dancing is very intimidating. Picture lots of billowy fabric and a rendition of “The Excorcist.” The women look like they are possessed as they flap their arms frantically, often being escorted to the sidelines for fear of over exertion but more to just be part of the act. I did my best impersonation while laughing, playing in my head the part of the movie where Emily Rose spins her head in a full 360 degrees. My 30 second performance wasn’t worthy of a nomination but I did get 500 GNF (approx. 10 cents) thrown at me! As we headed back N fa told me we would be drumming again tomorrow morning at 7 AM in our concession. I felt like it was Christmas Eve that night.

But instead of celebrating the end of Ramadan I opened my door to 20 silent Kouyate (my last name) men facing Mecca. I was confused expecting drums and singing like the night before but instead received a somber atmosphere. Something happened and I already know before N fa approached my hut. As I sat with the mother who just delivered the dead baby ( her second infant mortality this year) I was shocked that she was sitting up in her bed crying but seeming physically strong. I gave what benedictions I knew in Malinke like, “May Allah cool the earth of the recently buried,” and sat rubbing the mother’s back while women of the village made their rounds. There would be no music and dancing today.

But there was praying. Instead of going to the mosque the whole village went to my favorite spot. There is a huge clearing surround by mango trees that overlooks the vast Niger River. But what makes it even more special is this grand Baobab tree that has to be over hundreds of years old. Before my morning run I walk to the tree and touch it reminding me of my purpose here. It’s here the whole village has congregated, dressed in their finest, facing the bright river’s sun touched ripples. That memory will always be a special one during my service here.

The rest of the day was spent eating lots of meat, giving money or candy to kids saying, “I Sali ma fo,” and listening to their laughter as they chased the man who sings the call to prayer throughout the village. All the kids were clean wearing their new clothes and I realized that this was a day for the kids just like how Christmas has become for my family back in the States.

Gifts become less important as you grow older. What matters is being together with the ones you love. It’s about mom’s extravagant taste in decorations and dad’s unwillingness to flood his simple home with 4 ft. nutcrackers, it’s about Russ and Christian competing for the biggest man title by trying to out eat each other, it’s about my sisters’ and my doubts of breaking out the karaoke machine knowing we’ll fall asleep to my mom singing “Phantom of the Opera” (yes, we’re Asian). It’s about indulging in Cerisa’s surprisingly healthy pumpkin chocolate chip scones or Charmela’s not so healthy honey basted croissants straight from the oven. Oh the eating. It took me a week to resume my normal eating habits. I would come back from the market with bananas and set them on my table and stare at them until I realized they were game. I never enjoyed eating during daylight hours so much!

Ramadan was a really good experience despite how it started. I learned a lot about this culture and a lot about myself. There are times when I walk around and forget I’m not black which has pros and cons. It’s good because I feel comfortable and well integrated but bad because I don’t want to take this experience for granted. That’s why I remind myself of my past life and create commonalities like the holidays. Ramadan was my Easter, Halloween, Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year. No matter how different cultures appear to be there are the same themes of fasting for forgiveness, trick or treating/I Sali ma fo-ing, showing gratitude through gifts, celebrating life and death, and creating resolutions. Finding the universal truths of life shows me how to be at home in any situation by keeping family close in your heart. You can’t be homesick when you’re at home. Or better said by my Guinean friend Moussa who learned English in Ghana, “ Da house of someone YOU love, it tis nevuh fa!”

Monday, September 29, 2008

A Typical Day of Ramadan



4:20- My alarm titled Inshallah (God willing in Arabic) lulls me awake from my Mefloquine dreams. They’re horrifying, vivid dreams with an example of one being where Alex, another PCV, and I are stoning people to death and feeling justified.
4:25- After lighting two candles I set the table. In actuality I place two coffee mugs with two spoons on the floor. I set up our thermos filled with tea, a can of condensed milk, sugar, and a French baguette next to the mugs.
4:30-N fa arrives with our meal of either rice porridge and curdled milk or meat and sweet potatoes. I prefer the rice porridge for two reasons: 1) because I don’t have to prepare it. 2) because my stash of Rolaids is running low and meat and potatoes that early in the morning is never a good idea.
5:00- The meal is over and N fa leaves to go back to sleep. Since my real dad engrained his superstitions of sitting straight up for proper digestion after eating, I follow his words of fatherly, comforting wisdom. I sit straight up and read the Bible.
6:00-9:00- food coma
9:00-10:00- Clean up: I take my dirty dishes to the well and wash them. I return from the well with my clean dish water and fill my watering can. I use it to water the sunflowers and sisal that I planted around my hut and N fa’s hut. I sweep my hut and organize for the day.
10:00-11:30- I either write letters, write in my journal en français, or work on sensibilisations for l’école primaire all while listening to BBC on my shortwave radio.
11 :45- Famoury comes by to escort me to my English class which I hold in Famoury’s hut where he has a big black board.
12 :00-14:30- I teach anywhere from 1-5 Guineans English. But I also use this time to practice my French by asking questions I have regarding the culture which usually gets really heated. Peace Corps Goal #3 executed : cultural exchange.
15 :00-16 :00-I’m starving and try to keep my mind busy by various activities like helping villagers chuck corn, sitting by the river, or visiting friends despite their mockery of my obvious struggles with fasting.
16 :30-18 :30- I cook meat and potatoes African style. Yes, I pride myself in that I can cook for my family of 10. I go to the market and buy the ingredients speaking in Malinke, I come back and cut the fresh beef with the help of my little sister Moseke. Since there are no cutting boards it’s necessary to have two people : one to hold while the other saws through spinal cord and stomach lining.
18 :40- take the 2 minute walk to the mosque and do the prayer to break the fast.
18 :50- run back, like all the other villagers, while gulping down on my ginger drink in a bag. N fa and I are head to head and he yells, « Fadima contre la moni » which means me against the corn porridge I have grown to love which is called moni.
19:20- If I manage to finish the moni I yell out to N fa, “J’ai gagne!-I won” or if my stomach hurts I admit defeat. I walk with N na to the mosque for prayer.
19:30-20:10- prayer/work-out. As I reflect on the day and pray for forgiveness I am sweating bullets. I get light headed from all the bowing, up, down, up, down. I mumble the little Arabic n fa taught me and try to focus on its’ meaning. I forget about the stifling heat and mosquitoes feasting on my ankles and cherish the one time I am regarded as the same as everyone else.
20:30- N fa and I go to our café where we sit every night. N fa’s best friend owns the shop and never charges us for the tea we drink or for charging our cell phones. It’s always a good time of making fun of each other.
22:30-N fa and I are back in my hut ready to eat again. It’s always rice and sauce. We switch from listening to the local radio station to my BBC. But we always interpret what the news is saying to each other. We love talking about Barack Obama.
23:00-24:00- Finally, reading time. I love reading. I allow myself to read before bed and only during that time. It’s so easy to get caught up in a good book but I don’t want to look back on my service and remember my favorite passages from books. I want to be the storyteller.

Running Face First Into a Brick Wall


September 2nd, 2008 5:30 AM

As I’m lying naked under a pile of mud, bricks, and sheets of corrugated tin, I feel like Allah must be upset with me. He could be upset that I’m choosing to drink water during the month of Ramadan or He could be thinking I’ve sinned a lot this past year so the first day should start out in a manner such as this. I’ve been anxious and excited for the holy month of fasting to commence. Anxious because I know the challenges of fasting, but not to the extent of 30 days. Excited, for the opportunity to learn about a different religion through participation rather than from literature.
I’ve been preparing for today since I first got here by talking with n fa, asking Francophone villagers questions, and going to the mosque on Fridays. That’s why I wasn’t surprised to hear a knock on my door at 4:30 this morning. It was time to eat before the sun rose. N fa comes into my hut wearing a drenched raincoat, carrying our meal. The rain is pounding so we have to shut my door completely. I’m less than excited to eat the rice and sauce from the night before, only because the sauce leaves an oily film on my hand. However, I am appreciative of the warm meal in this gloomy weather.
N fa finishes before me as he always does meaning the water remaining in the wash bowl is not going to really help rid the oil from my right hand. So by ritual, rain or shine, I take the bowl out to my open air brick latrine area to wash my hands thoroughly with soap. However, today I opt to go outside wearing no clothes instead of putting on a raincoat. I wish I chose the latter.
But looking back I’m glad no one could hear my cries through the thunderous rain. Sure, wearing clothes would have protected me more from the damage, but bruises and cuts heal, and seeing a naked tubabu could mortify a Guinean for many years. I was shocked at my misfortunes. I could not believe that every volunteer’s nightmare of their latrine breaking while they are in it, just happened to me. Why did the wall have to collapse during the 20 second window I decided to go out there? To look on the brighter side at least I didn’t fall in it, it just fell on top of me.
But I was still scared because I couldn’t tell if I was bleeding from all the mud covering me. I grabbed the back of my head and felt a bump the size of a baseball. I also felt a bump on my forehead the size of a golf ball, but no skin broken. I was worried about my mud encrusted back which was sending off stinging sensations. After climbing out of the disaster zone, I manage to carefully wrap a towel around me and yell out of my hut for my counterpart. “N fa, pouvez vous m’aider!!! Je suis blessée!”
N fa runs over and tries to see if I have any major cuts. He tells me I have to bathe because the mud formed a thick cake on my back. He observes that there are some rocks cut into me. I feel a little relief crying while I bathe with my loofah and hibiclens antimicrobial wash. I scrub ferociously determined to not have to go to Conakry where our medical unit is located.
My one minute cry session of fear turns into chuckles of disbelief. Around 6:00 I am able to vent to Raven, another PCV. She somehow always calls when I need comforting in English. She is also fasting with her village and was only calling that early to wish me luck. We share laughter over how walls of houses or huts seem to be commonplace in Guinea during the rainy season. I ask her what she thinks Allah is trying to tell me. Her response is, “He’s trying to tell you to take the first day easy and to stay in bed.” I think He wants me to do that for the whole month!

Wednesday, August 20, 2008

...cause I've got angels watching over me



''Jesus loves you"-Noah, my 2 year old nephew's response to the story I'm about to tell.

Once I felt the slightest bit better Katalina and I decided to leave Conakry in a hurry so we could meet the new stage. Our excitement helped us face the dreaded 15 hour voyage in a bush taxi that lay ahead. We got out to find a taxi to take us to gare by 5:30. It was still dark and I was grateful that the security guard was willing to help me flag down a taxi. 20 minutes went by with a couple of cars passing, some really nice private cars and some really shady ones transporting ladies of the night. The day forebode the events I'm about to tell.
Finally around 6:15 a car stopped and I asked the driver if he could take us to the gare for Kankan. He said he could and it would cost 70,000 FGN. I informed him that I know what the real price is and that he should just go instead. After discussing the price with the help of the security guard, the real price was finally agreed on of 20,000 FGN.
My heart rate was so high causing my recovering stomach to ache. While I listened to Katalina argue with the man about his mischievious attempts of ripping off people. The more the man talked, the more I wish I would've spotted the signs of his substance abuse before getting into the car. He didn't know where he was going and abruptly stopped claiming he needed to fix a flat. While he was outside seeing to the repair we decided it best to get another taxi, and to avoid any conflict we would pay him half the fare even though he didn't fulfill the contract. As I settled the fare with the 2nd taxi I look over to the commotion and see Katalina being shaken like a rag doll by the drunk. She was screaming in French and cursing in English causing a crowd to rush in attempts of stopping her attacker. Once the man was detained, he fabricated a story that a fare of 100,000 FGN was agreed on. The crowd was quick to pick up on the man's chemically altered state and helped us escape using the 2nd taxi.
I got away with the uncontrollable shakes and Katalina got away with a torn dress. Our condition was quickly calmed by the friendly Malinke people at the Kankan gare. Just as I thought we were in the clear, the crazy man blocks our moving car with another car full of his friends. He starts yelling how we owe him 100,000 FGN while hitting the car. My shaking fingers manage to call Ousmane, our safety and security director. Ousmane did his magic and we drove away around 8:00.
I'm still shaking when our car gets stopped again. But this time it's in a busy intersection by the police accompanied by the crazy entourage. It's been over an hour of praying to stop me from crying and at this point I lose it. Katalina loses it too, which still blows my mind because she never cries. My prayers were answered in the form of an angel who happened to be in the car with us.
Her name is Diaka. She told us she knew somebody who worked for the Peace Corps and that we should call him. In her perfect English she said we should call Ousmane, our director whom we just got off the phone with. All throughout the police investigation she was there mediating,talking to Ousmane and the police, and giving me courage. I can still hear her saying, "Don't show them you're scared. God is with you."
God is always there, but it seems like it's only during times of desperation that we recognize Him. God was there giving me the courage to stare in the devil's eye when he told his lies to the police. God was there in the nice police man who said,"not everyone is like that man, we are not all corrupt." God was there providing us a competent driver to handle the rain slicked, windy, and broken roads. God was there in Diaka.
I don't believe in coincedences, so I delighted in God's grace. I told Ousmane's favorite student that God sent her to me and she laughed. Her laughter stopped when I told her I was Filipino. She works for the Philippine Consulate in Conakry.

Thursday, August 14, 2008

Reforestation Round 1






My village held it's first round of the reforestation project us AGFO volunteers are in charge of. Seeing that the rainy season is just starting, the ground is prime creating a perfect environment for my well nurtured babies I planted back in March. Le groupement des eleves, approximately 20 garcons helped plant over 600 trees in less than 4 hours. We went along the Niger, starting at a grove of trees that the Guinea-Mali NGO planted bout 20 years ago (good omen-inshallah!) and ended just past l'ecole primaire. Seeing the positive, well-informed, high spirited youth, the wise president of the district, my homologue the village griot, and a few other prominent village elders unite in their efforts calmed all my fears. People are aware of the importance of reforestation and will step up to make their community better. It excites me knowing that we addressed an area that needs it, which is basically my backyard. Now I can keep a close watch on which goat I'll be eating for dinner given that it touches one satiable leaf on my precious, fire-resistant Gmelina.

Wednesday, August 13, 2008

PERPECTIVES



"It's the closest place you can get to heaven-minus the trash."
- my little sister, Cerisa, after spending a week at my site.

I'm in Conakry right now, recovering. Recovering from what you may ask? Stress and the usual case of Giardia, Schisto, or Salmonella. I'll find out exactly what from the PCMO tomorrow when my results get in. But since I, like so many other volunteers live with the runs or live running from them (pardon if you just ate dinner), the last 3 cases are not out of the norm. For me, it was the stress that brought me to this wonderful refuge called Conakry.

It was here that I was reminded about the kind of person I am. I am a perfectionist. And being that type of person in a country like Guinea, where the protectors of law are the ones breaking them, things don't quite...well how do I say it? Ca marche pas! I've been so happy and healthy with my situation here because I love my site. It is here that I've been able to find my niche by forming strong relationships, feeling a sense of belonging within my community which leads into finally making a strange place into a home. I always believed that you can't be homesick when you're at home. It's when you leave home that you get sick and vomit everything you put into your body for 6 days straight!

I am so tired and I shouldn't be surprised considering that I sleep only 2 hours a night when in my home that I speak so highly of. It's so funny because I've been so at ease at my site that it becomes easy to forget that being an insomniac is unhealthy. If I were in the states getting that little rest I would be livid and I would have immediately done something about it. But no...something about Guinea makes you forget to take care of yourself. Maybe it's because there are so many other things to take care of that seems of greater priority.

Whether you're a fellow G15er or a certain best friend working in a big cooperate office please take this to heart. Remember yourself. It's not being selfish. It's being smart. Take care of yourself first.






Thursday, July 3, 2008

Fish Fete






Here are a few pictures of this holiday of fishing. I can say that this easily makes it up there with my top most amazing festivals I've participated in. It succeeds "Running with the Bulls" because I couldn't actually participate in "running" due to the state I was in from the night before. And because there were absolutely no tourists/foreigners except a handful of us PCVs.

I'm a little blogged out so I will brief what a "Fish fete" entails: a fair like atmosphere with really greasy food and hiked up prices on random items, lots of entertainment with carnival looking costumes and props, dancing under the stars while inhaling red earth and loving every sweaty minute of it, singing "Down by the Bay" for half an hour with fellow PCVs in hopes of amusing the hundreds of children fascinated by the tubabus (white people), racing into knee deep muddy water at the sound of a shot gun and using very archaic fishing devices from wooden cages to mesh tank tops.

Tuesday, July 1, 2008

C'est la vie


Yesterday started off well. After my run I decided to choose the best Moringa from my tree nursery and plant them in the school garden along with some sisal. The day was beautiful until I heard a woman start wailing as I was taking my bucket bath. Automatically knowing there was another death my heart sank, as it always does when one finds out bad news. N fa Mou calls for me and I tell him I’m bathing. He remains at the door for a second and yells that a baby has died and I need to come and sit outside to pay my respects.
As I walk up to the house I see two groups of men and women and I place my chair among the women facing the men. Somewhere in the midst of benedictions, mothers’ wails, and bouts of silence I start to hear my own heavy breathing followed by sniffling. I started balling over a death that I don’t even feel like I should have been so worked up over. I didn’t even know them!
I’ve cried a lot in my life but I’ve never had to hold back the fury that I held back within me yesterday. Not like that, because I have never felt so many shameful things at once. I was not only disrespecting the will of Allah by being a woman shedding a tear but I never felt so scared with the unfamiliar. I felt anger too like where the hell am I…God doesn’t want babies to die. I felt embarrassed with N fa Mou sitting among the men trying to get me to stop sulking, while speaking in Malinke. I felt confused and sure of what I was being told because language is universal in times of desperation. I felt detached from my body while watching N fa Mou carry the tiny body in goat skin away to the river. I felt relief that I won’t be blind because washing my tears with water was the advice given by the woman sitting closest to me and no matter how silly you know the superstition to be you follow it because it’s motherly.

Save the Arts!




I love Peace Corps. Honestly, the opportunity to do what we do is a once in a lifetime chance. I am so lucky to know what its like to love your job. It doesn’t feel like work because it’s so fun. I found my niche working with l’ecole primaire. The students don’t speak French well but I found that with a little initiative and a ton of patience it’s possible to get the wheels turning in their heads. You see Guineans were taught to write beautifully but slowly, to memorize but not comprehend, to follow good examples but not foster an imagination.
It wasn’t until I came here that I realized the importance of the arts. I remember always hearing about art programs being the first to be cut in the states and me not giving a care in the world because it didn’t affect my science classes. I like the sciences because there was always a concrete explanation, an answer, a means to an end. But I took for granted that my other half of the brain was free. An individual has all the power to create that means to an end by drawing a picture, dancing, or even writing a blog entry.
Upon starting environmental clubs at the school I decided to get them excited by giving them a chance to beautify their school by painting a mural regarding environmental awareness. I sketched 3 examples to give them the idea that a mural’s most important attribute is the message. I returned the following day only to see that every single blank piece of paper had the same theme I portrayed in one of my examples minus a message. The one exception in the class of 50+ sixth graders was Namoury, the star student. His drawing was beautiful portraying a farmer carrying a basket full of fodder but my hopes diminished once I realized he had traced the picture.
My hope continued to diminish when I made up a reforestation game using a piece of cardboard depicting their village and 30 toothpicks each representing a tree. I asked questions before I had them cut down wood to help them see the importance of trees. I asked what types of trees were in the village. The first student says “le mangue.” Ok, we’re on a good start even though the better answer would’ve been “le mangier.” So I continue to ask and everyone repeats the same answer-MANGO. Yes, trees provide fruit to eat but what else are they used for? Blank stares. How does your mom cook mango sadi? Blank stares. What do the goats, cows, and donkeys eat? Blank stares. Where do all the boys sit while preparing the tea or all the girls sit while braiding hair? Blank stares.
After 20 minutes of probing I was able to show most of them the importance of trees. Once I could see their eyes fill with understanding I stated that I was hungry and there was a soiree in the village so we needed wood to cook with. I sent them out to chop wood (aka pull out a toothpick). Once every toothpick was gone the children saw the difficulties of deforestation and its impacts on the future of their village. I have hope that somehow that piece of cardboard reflected the mothers of the village and their long treks in search of wood. My saving grace was when one student yelled out, “ that’s why we have to reforest!”

Saturday, May 10, 2008

Can I do it?


Written during Monsieur Diallo’s class at l’ecole primaire, 20 avril 2008

After working in a school like Legacy Private Academy where there are high learning standards to fit the WASC accreditation and wonderful support from the parents and community and coming to a school like this: 60+ kids in one class, a horrible female to male ratio, and no apparent curriculum one thing comes to mind. Life is so unfair.
It’s almost perfect to start out at a school like Legacy because it truly is the opposite end of the spectrum. I’ll be pushed, tested, and challenged to form something that seems impossible. To raise awareness in a community that has been trying to jump over the foundation. Jumping to cell phones and satellites where there aren’t land lines or running water.
I want to yell and cry out about how unfair life is as I look at the crumbling, poor excuse of this institution of education. I remember walking through the warm halls of Legacy and looking up at the crystal chandeliers and I wake up to this. A place that the teachers don’t even show up on time or at all.
Can I do it? I doubt myself and feel overwhelmed. But then I find a little courage to look out into a sea of dark faces and as my eyes meet theirs I see light. That light is all I need.
“Our deepest fear is not that we are inadequate, our deepest fear is that we are powerful beyond measure. It is our light, not our darkness, that most frightens us. We ask ourselves, “Who am I to be brilliant, gorgeous, talented, and fabulous?” Actually, who are you not to be? You are a child of God. Your playing small does not serve the world. There is nothing enlightened about shrinking so that other people won’t feel insecure around you. We were born to make manifest the glory of God that is within us. It is not just in some of us. It is in everyone. And as we let our own light shine, we unconsciously give other people permission to do the same. As we are liberated from our own fear our presence automatically liberates others.” -Nelson Mandela

Wednesday, May 7, 2008

Five a Day


I have to face the fact that this place is not America but I can’t help but coin certain activities and places comparing them to the “land of opportunity.” My days are really simple and I laugh a lot but this American labeling to African daily life has put a real appreciation to the things I took for granted.

Everyone is extremely friendly always greeting “I ni sooma” which means “good morning” and “tana ma si?” which means “did you sleep without evil?” My favorite is when someone says your last name and you’re supposed to answer back in affirmation. I always get “Kouyate” and I respond “nse” because I’m female which means “I am able.” It’s like if someone yelled “Ignacio” and I said “Yeah, you know it!” Since the majority of my village is Keita I have a high chance of this working. Villagers love it when I say, “ Keita yay sondedi” which means “Keitas are thieves!”

There is this one rice bar that serves the best rice and sauce en ville. Katalina, my closest PCV friend, and I decided it was deserving of the label “sushi.” After we get sushi I like to get “Starbucks” which is the frozen tamarind drink that is served in a plastic bag. The seeds inside my tall sweetened “Starbucks” remind me of espresso beans. I often sip, or rather I often suck on my “Starbucks” while strolling through the market aka “the mall.”

But sometimes there is no need to go to the mall because the vendors selling anything from pocket mirrors to red palm oil will pass right by your hut. I like to think of this as “Ebay” because of the price wars that take place. My bargaining skills have been sharpened since I’ve been here, with my routine starting out with me asking for the Guinean price and ending with the vendor laughing after I sing the one song I know in Malinke.

I see my concession of huts as this really upscale apartment complex that would overlook some beautiful landscape like Central Park. The location is priceless being one of the closest to the Niger River. Also my hut has two doors which are key during the dry season and it has its own latrine pit.

Rain here is like going to watch a show at the Pantages Theatre. The thunder cracks throughout the entire sky and rolls as if there were stone walls for them to bounce off of and stadium seating for all to experience. However, I think this is better than the theatre because I don’t have to dress up and the price of all of messini would never add up to the value of this spectacle.

This act of relabeling is my way of coping with missing my life in the states. Hanging out with my girls has been replaced with sitting among Muslim men. Playing with my nephews has been substituted with spinning dirty faced little boys by their arms. Going to the gym can be satisfied by my hour long run that ends with a cool down along the Niger river. Watching American Idol with my mom can be the same as watching the village mask dances with N fa Mou. My love for driving has been replaced by riding my bike, and trying to eat at least 5 fruits and vegetables a day has been replaced by eating 5 mangoes a day.

Saturday, April 12, 2008

It's good being a Griot


I insist to google "Griot" and you'll see the culture I'm immersed in as well as indulge in one of the many things I miss--the search engine. The Griots are known as the professional storytellers of West Africa. They are masters of the balaphone which I like to regard it as a sort of piano/drum made out of wood. They have been known to stop wars because of their smooth talking. However, in present day I see them as a sort of DJ after attending weddings and celebrations of life aka funerals. It's expected that all ceremonies have a griot present.
My counterpart is the main Griot of my village and I feel so lucky to be working alongside such a respected individual. He is so respected that he gets gifts of money randomly throughout the day. I made him teach me the phrase "I want to be like you" so that everytime he gets a gift I can humor him and say it in my best Malinke accent. I swear if I got a penny for everytime he received a gift I would be a Guinean millionaire and buy my very own cow. But the tide has turned and I'm starting to get gifts that makes my dad's gifts look like chump change. A certain petit tailleur named Amara Keita has taken interest in me and has been giving me gifts of oranges, avocadoes, money, his mom's rice and sauce, and even phone cards. I feel bad because he has spent so much money but my dad says I must take it. I'm also embarassed because he's really cute, has a great smile, and has a steady job...too bad he's 13 years old. The only other thing is he doesn't speak French so I'm back to the pointing, guessing, smiling, laughing, and nodding. He usually comes to my hut after dinner and I sit reading while he colors Disney pictures by candle light. I remember the first night I showed him the colored pencils and coloring book. My heart sank as I watched him perform a task he's never been given the chance to do. The opportunity and the necessity to excersize his creative mind. However, he quickly caught on and now is starting to show some courage by creating patterns on Goofy's hats.
Speaking of Goofy, my counterpart resembles his dark, lanky exterior. Fortunately, his character is not at all like the akward Disney dogs'. His name is Moutaga Kouyate, but everyone in the village calls him n'fa Mou. It sounds like umfah moo and it's short for father Moutaga. Not only is he the respected griot, but he also has worked with other PC volunteers and NGOs so he knows what he's doing. He is motivated and truly cares about his village. Since I've been here we've established a tree nursery in his garden of 1300 trees of 9 different species good for land reclamation and agfo practices such as live fences, firebreaks, fodder and human consumption. This would not have been possible if the former volunteer in a village across the river didn't collect, properly store, and give the seeds to n'fa Mou. It felt like Christmas when I saw his gift of two buckets full of every AgFo volunteers dreams. Thank you Rob wherever you are!
In a couple of months the rainy season will commence and I'll start giving sensibilizations getting the villagers involved to plant the trees. In the meantime I've been attending l'ecole primaire trying to make good relations with the youth and the teachers. I have aspirations of starting an Environmental Education Club, garden, and tree nursery there. I also am playing with the idea of starting a speech contest in the region concerning environmental issues. What better way to publicize and urge sustainability but to have the next generation talking about it. I want to hold sensibilizations on building mudstoves, solar dryers, the benefits of Moringa oleifera, and venture into the public health sector by helping nearby volunteers. This is just a short list of the many things I'm thinking of but I've been given the advice to do things little by little or how a Guinean would say it "small, small."

Wednesday, March 19, 2008

Bonne Fete!


March 14th was officially my first month at my site. Now only 23 more months to go! The Peace Corps staff and former volunteers all said that the 1st month is the hardest and I believe that statement now that it has passed. I'm at a place where I'm not doing a countdown when I will return to the states. I feel more like how am I going to do everything I want to do in such little time.
We are not allowed to do any projects the first 3 months at site, making integration within the community a priority. So far, the village is starting to recognize me as Fadima Kouyate (my Guinean name) and not as tubabu (white person). I am able to fool people into thinking I speak their local language, Malinke, by knowing a few salutations. I am able to find my hut in this maze of huts after recognizing landmarks such as the big mosque, the marche, and the video club. I can wash my clothes in the Niger River in less than an hour depending on factors like load and number of petites fighting over my underwear.
However, there are some things I don't think I'll ever adopt or get accustomed to. I don't think I'll ever get comfortable with the sounds of crying children or the natural tone of hostility in the Malinke women's daily conversation. I don't think I can ever swim in the river topless like all the other women...especially when seeing how they react to the skin color of my back! I doubt I will ever come to terms with a women's role in a predominant muslim culture.
I have learned so much about myself since I left the states. The experiences one has here are truly once in a life time opportunities, aka self evaluations. This is what I have discovered about myself in 4 months:
*I think it's a contradiction when the nice primary school teacher holds a whip while teaching his students
*I don't mind getting my water from a pump or a well
*I can eat with my hands and don't see utensils as necessity
*I prefer the water method and my pit latrine
*I get frustrated learning 2 languages and release that frustration in English profanity to whomever is present
*I cry to my best friends about being sick and/or homesick
*I vomit immediately after witnessing donkeys mating (not a joke)
*I pinch every child's cheeks regardless of how dirty they are
*I love filling bags with improved soil for a tree nursery
*I don't mind sitting quiet for hours among muslim men speaking in Malinke
*I bond with the crazy women best by learning their hysterical dances around the fire
*I get annoyed when men do the finger poke while shaking your hand insinuating they want to sleep with you
* I find hope that a project can be sustainable through my villages' gardens
*I get sad about the female to male ratio in the overcrowded private schools
*I still shave my legs and underarms as well as paint my toe nails
*I can't believe I can make little kids cry and run away in fright just by the sight of me
The list goes on and will only continue to grow. I imagine the next time I write I'll be able to describe my increased understanding of the muslim religion which I have expressed interest in participating in by going to the mosque every Friday. Allowing myself to be open has given me the strength and patience needed to do what I'm doing. But I promise you that I remember everyday who I am and where I come from in order to experience this. I am happy. Je suis Fadima Kouyate.

Friday, February 8, 2008

My new home


(Taken from my personal journal because I'm too tired to think of another way to describe my site)

Talk about a cultural experience. All the anxiety has been worth this. I loved visiting my site so much. It was so hard driving in a bush taxi and I can't even imagine the experience without Dramamine. They squeeze two to a seat and it's ridiculous how most of the rode is pot-holed making the entire drive seem like the ride "Indiana Jones" in Disneyland except it lasts for 14 hours instead of 2.6 minutes. And I can't forget to mention how unsafe each taxi is...you're lucky if the doors open and/or shut efficiently.
I was so bummed to miss the futbol match because of travelling: Guinea vs. Ghana with Ghana winning. We (Monsieur Kouyate) and I got dropped off on the main road and walked 1 K into my site on a moon-lit upaved road. Even though it was dark the town could tell I was different and the kids were holding my hands and arms naming me Aicha (which is the popular name of the water sachets that I drink).
I'm eating peanuts in my hut with the sounds of the balaphone and hammering in the background. They're attaching a screen door to the rickety metal door on my hut. This culture is rich in music (a drum hanging on my wall), good food (communal eating with the hands), and respect (constant drone of salutations). Last night was a much needed night of sleep. I have a straw/foam sunkend in the middle queen-sized bed with a mosquito net. There is a sewn tarp of UNICEF labeled rice bags that make a pseudo roof to separate my straw roof. My floor is mud and the wall are too. My little broom lays next to a sack filled with white powder which I don't know the purpose for. I have a chair, a squatting stool, and two tables. One serves as my eating table and the other for my belongings.
Last night upon arrival I ate with Monsieur Kouyate some awesome meal of rice and sauce with chicken. I had to wash my hands with this water that I didn't think did the trick to get off the dirt so I was sly and used my hand sanitizer while he was fanning off the hot rice. The sauce had to be squeezed from the rice so you can try to ball it up into your mouth. I was so relieved when my hands could tell it was chicken because my eyes sure couldn't (no electricity in huts!). He made sure I had my fill...maybe to fulfill the muslim saying of angels not being able to take you away while sleeping or he could just want to get me fat like everyone else in this country.
I live in one hut of many in the Kouyate compound. I've met so many kids and older people. The more notable encounter is Monsieur Kouyate's ailing father. He's hooked up to some bright yellow fluid in his bed. I've held his weak hands and I wanted to cry for someone I don't even know. However, the 8 wailing elderly women lining the walls of his room beat me to it.
After the wonderful, peaceful rest I woke up to mom and dad calling, as well as 2 texts from Katalina (PCV 5K away). I ate some bread with Laughing Cow cheese, some tea with evaporated milk and sugar, and some bouille. The bouille was different from my host families' in that corn was used instead of rice and it tasted more sour than sweet. I think I'm acquiring the taste for it. It's like hominy in good sour milk. I can't wait till I understand it all. Some things seem so illogical and others make perfect sense. For example, I love how they eat their oranges here. The rind of the orange is lightly peeled off and a bite-sized top is cut off either with a knife or with a mouth. Next, squeeze the juice into your mouth for a healthy all natural juice box.
My hut is something I joked about living in before coming here but I'm oddly relieved that this joke has become reality. This is the true African lifestyle, something you do see on TV with every child having dirty, crusty faces and flies all over.

Wednesday, February 6, 2008

Speech for Swear-In Ceremony (English version)


I gave this speech at the Swearing In ceremony on February 8, 2008 (En Francais). My AgFo friend Raven video-taped a small part of it and she said she'll try posting it on YouTube. I was nervous the past couple of days especially when I found out that the American Ambassador was going to be present as well as having the added pressure of being taped for Guinean television. Fortunately, after much thought I decided there was no point in being anxious and I got up there and gave my all. I was relieved to hear laughs, meaning that my French was actually comprehensible. I was also touched to find out that I actually made people cry. There were 3 other volunteers that gave amazing thank you speeches in Susu, Pular, and Malinke to represent the 3 regions of service throughout Guinea. There was more crying during our Country Director's speech, and I'm not going to lie that I was one of many that shed some tears. We were also graced with a beautiful speech from a former volunteer in Ethiopia who served in the first group of Americans sent out ever! I had an awesome time during the ceremony and it made me feel so proud and honored to be a volunteer. Hope you enjoy the English version of my speech!

Mr. Ambassador, Peace Corps Country Director, Assistant Peace Corps Country Directors, Language teachers, Technical trainers, Peace Corps staff, and fellow Peace Corps volunteers:

As we are about to swear in as volunteers I look back and feel very lucky to have been paired with the Haba Family in Maferinyah. Not only did they provide me with the same love and care as my biological family but they also shared the beautiful Guinean culture with a complete stranger. I came to them as a non-French speaking newborn and in just 2 months I'm leaving for another destination as a conversational French speaking adolescent. The Haba family is my family forever and I can't thank them enough for everything they've done for me.

However, I know that I represent all the stagiaires when I say it wasn't just my Guinean family that made stage memorable. It was the first family that welcomed us in Conakry on December 4, 2007. It was you Peace Corps staff. You have taught us to laugh all the time especially when you find a dead rat in your latrine pit, to cry to your nearest English speaking neighbor about the frustrations of adjusting to a new culture, to appreciate drinking a cold coke, and to stay positive even when you have to go to the bathroom every 20 minutes.

My APCD Monsieur Abdoulaye Diallo said it best, " Remember who you are, where you come from, and enjoy this experience to the fullest." Living in Maferinyah has limited my interaction with many of you here in Conakry but I promise that every smile, every "bonjour, ca va?," every kind recognition has made Guinea feel more like a home and less like a foreign country. Without your support , we would never have learned how to be the G15 family we are today. For that I thank you from the bottom of my heart.

Now, we are prepared to work throughout three regions of Guinea, and if our new communities welcome us with the same hospitality as our host families and as you Peace Corps staff, then I know that serving for the next 2 years will be a joy.

Thank you very much! Go Guinea! Go Peace Corps! Go the Guinean-American Cooperation!

Thursday, January 17, 2008

Until I think of a better title...


I must be doing something right to be receiving so many letters, Christmas cards, and care packages! I feel so loved and I can't express how much all the love and support is appreciated. I promise that I'm in the process of writing you all back but it will take a while to send the letters out because so far the only postal office I know of is in Conakry. Either way I look at my letters over and over and feel like I' m really not that far from home at all. This experience has really made me appreciate home even more and strengthen my ties at home. Again, I have never felt this much love, support, involvement, and pride from my friends and family. My most sincere thank you to all!
My morale as well as the rest of the AgFo training group is very high right now and it all is owed to you all back at home. We have talked about the things we miss at home everyday for the past month which mostly entails food. So every piece of chocolate, every bite of cheese, every sip of Crystal Lite to mask the bleach water has been cherished to its greatest capacity. We laugh about how post-service life is going to be so easy. For example, when finding housing we'll have no problem. We laugh about how easily entertained we'll be by the simplest things like turning on a switch. My friend Teale envisioned us turning on and off a light switch for hours with these glazed eyes saying, "Amazing...works every time!" In all honesty, I see this experience as one really long camping trip. I'm having so much fun here!
Our group is really bonding and moments like New Year's Day will be engrained in all our crazy "This Is Africa" memories. After successfully building a BBQ pit at our trainer's house the next obvious thing to do was to use it. Sounds simple enough but first we had to get the meat. That day was officially the 3rd goat I've seen slaughtered. I've become desensitized by this point so it didn't bother me to see its' muscles still twitching as the parts were laid over the pit. The goat didn't taste that great but the experience was the first of many to bond us "leatherman wearers" closer.
After the BBQ we were ushered to play a soccer match against the town's soccer teams. We were blown out of the water to see the whole town present as well as the prefet (like a mayor) and the town officials. They even went as far to put up nets on the goals. To cut to the point, I miracously scored the 1st goal of the game. I claim full bragging rights only because the only soccer I've played in my whole life has been against 5th graders! It was the strangest feeling hearing my name echo over the loud speakers (speakers attached to the roof of a car). I wasn't even sure that I had made it because at the exact moment I kicked the ball the opponent clocked me. I got up, dusted off, and squealed for joy! The whole town went crazy and I instantly became the town hero. Once I sat out, the photographer came and took a picture of me drinking my plastic bag of water. I have no idea if they are intending to post the picture in some community newsletter but once I find out I'd love to post it so I can show Heny Haba at her finest moment in Maferinyah. My Guinean family was so proud.
Another bonding moment was our success at making BBQ chicken pizza. We've designated one night a week as our "Saturday night shake-down" to get away from the rice and sauce and try to cook as creatively as possible given our situation with lack of cooking ingredients and an oven. Yea...you can call us intense because if you want BBQ sauce you gotta make it and if you want chicken on that pizza you gotta kill it first. Our next group meal is breakfast however we have a birthday request to get some monkey meat before the french toast. I'm not sure if I'd like to go out that way though. AgFo consensus says that being bitten by a Black Mamba is a much cooler way to die.